In the heart of downtown San Francisco, a Panda Express stands as a beacon of resilience amidst the desolate landscape of the San Francisco Centre Mall. While 90% of surrounding stores have shuttered their doors, this bustling Chinese-American restaurant continues to serve up orange chicken and hope to a diverse crowd of office workers, students, and city employees.

The restaurant’s ability to thrive where others have failed is nothing short of remarkable. With up to 10 staff members ensuring seamless service, the Panda Express remains a hub of activity in an otherwise ghost-like shopping center. Daily sales range between $5,000 to $13,000, a testament to its enduring appeal.

For many patrons, like Han Li, a Chinese expat, the restaurant represents more than just a quick meal. It’s a complex symbol of immigrant cuisine, American adaptation, and urban survival. Han, who once relied on Panda Express during his graduate studies, now views the restaurant with a mix of nostalgia and cultural critique.

The mall’s dramatic decline is stark: after Bloomingdale’s closure in April, occupancy rates plummeted to a mere 7%. The food court, once bustling, now hosts just three remaining dining options, with Panda Express being the most consistently populated.

Mohammad and Rabia Waqar, owners of a nearby Pakistani restaurant, symbolize the broader struggle. They plan to close their mall location within months, acknowledging the impossibility of merely surviving in such a challenging environment.

As San Francisco continues to transform, this Panda Express serves as a microcosm of urban resilience. It’s not just selling food; it’s selling a narrative of adaptation and persistence in a rapidly changing cityscape. While the mall’s future remains uncertain, this single restaurant continues to feed both bodies and hopes.

The fluorescent lights might eventually dim, but for now, the woks are firing, the orange chicken is sizzling, and a small piece of San Francisco’s commercial history continues to pulse with life.