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The San Francisco Frontier | Est. 2025
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Del Popolo Is Closing and the SF Food Scene Is Getting a Major Makeover

An illuminated OPEN sign in glaring red and framed by blue and green lines. Scanned from 35 mm slide film, shot in the city center of Vancouver, B.C., in August 2002.

Photo by Mark Zanzig on Unsplash

If you’ve been sleeping on Del Popolo’s legendary Neapolitan pizza, you’re running out of time. The iconic Nob Hill spot is officially shutting down after 12 years, and owner Jon Darsky just dropped the news on Instagram. Honestly, it’s a bittersweet moment for the SF food community, but his reasoning actually makes sense. Darsky, who cut his teeth at Flour + Water, is pivoting to focus on his frozen pizza business, which is honestly kind of genius. “Months of reflection haven’t lessened my ambivalence, but ultimately it feels like the right decision and the right path”, he explained. “Changing the way people think about frozen pizza is a mission I believe in, and I’m eager to continue building on what we’ve already accomplished”. You’ve got until May 8 to grab one last slice of Del Popolo magic.

But don’t worry, the food scene isn’t slowing down. There’s plenty of new stuff happening around the Bay that should keep your taste buds busy. Over on Divisadero, Esme is gearing up for a May opening in the old Ragazza space. Chef-owner Susan Dunn, who also co-owns Pearl 6101 in the Richmond, is bringing French-inspired bistro vibes with a focus on local ingredients. Best part? She’s keeping prices reasonable with entrees running between $22 and $32. “I want to channel the spirit of French cuisine using local ingredients”, Dunn told the Chronicle. “I want to bring the sense of ease and warmth you get from the bistro, with food that feels equally refined and comforting”.

Meanwhile, Noe Valley is getting Grand Lake Kitchen, an Oakland favorite that just soft-opened for brunch and dinner. They’re doing limited hours for now, but full service kicks off April 1.

The Mission is having a moment too. A Michoacan-style carnitas spot called Carnitas El Rincon is opening at 3222 22nd Street, offering tacos, burritos, and carnitas by the pound. Just a few doors down, Taiwanese-style fried chicken concept Zhengxin Chicken Steak is launching its second Bay Area location at 3230 22nd Street with fried chicken, milk tea, and scallion pancakes on the menu.

Over in the Marina, Bar Darling’s crew just opened Lobalita, a Mexican cantina in the old Tipsy Pig space. The team, Stryker Scales, Nate Valentine, and Jamal Blake-Williams, are diving back into the Mexican food game with cocktails at $14 and a solid menu of small plates and enchiladas.

On the closure front, Taishan Cuisine shut down its Ingleside location after just one year, though the popular Cantonese spot still has its original Chinatown location, which stays open until 3 am for late-night cravings.

If you’re in Berkeley, check out Xulo, a homestyle burrito pop-up featuring Sonoran-style tortillas. They’re popping up every Saturday from 10 am to 1 pm at Morrell’s Bread. And Bar Panisse continues to pack the house with its Paris wine bar energy, though the menu is a bit hit-or-miss.

AUTHOR: mp

SOURCE: SFist

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