If you’ve been sleeping on Loveski Deli, it’s time to wake up. Christopher Kostow, the acclaimed chef behind Napa’s fine dining scene, just opened the doors to his beloved bagel operation in Jackson Square on Wednesday, and honestly, this is way bigger than your standard “Jew-ish” deli situation.

Kostow has been running Loveski as a four-year passion project, starting with the original location at Napa’s Oxbow Public Market back in 2022, followed by a Marin County Mart outpost in Larkspur in 2023. Now the SF location is live at 499 Jackson Street, and it’s clear Kostow has thought deeply about what this neighborhood actually needs. He’s positioning Loveski as much more than just a bagel shop, and the fact that they took over the former Postscript Cafe and kept much of the existing staff shows they’re serious about fitting into the community’s vibe.

The bagels here are made Montreal-style and boiled in honey, which means they’re legit. You’ve got eight flavors to choose from, including a gluten-free seeded everything option, plus classics like poppy seed, sesame seed, and cinnamon-raisin. There’s also a “famous yeast” bagel and one coated in Jacobson salt. Don’t expect wild flavor combinations, Kostow’s keeping it real.

The sandwich game is strong. You can get pastrami on soft rye, a proper Reuben, a tuna melt on griddled rye, or braised brisket on a crunchy roll. Japanese-style egg salad on milk bread brings that unexpected touch of Kostow’s culinary background. The SF location is emphasizing grab-and-go options more than the Napa spot, so expect the egg salad sandwich and turkey and cheddar to be readily available, plus a vegetarian chickpea salad sandwich.

The cream cheese spreads deserve their own moment. Miso-vegetable, yellow chive and fermented onion, and a vegan spread option show Kostow’s not just phoning it in on the basics. Beyond bagel sandwiches, they’re serving roasted salmon and chicken teriyaki bowls, a chicken Caesar wrap, and a new breakfast burrito loaded with pastrami, a smashed latke, and green onion. That’s the kind of creative thinking that happens when a Michelin-trained chef decides bagels are worth their time.

Loveski Deli is open daily from 7 am to 7 pm at 499 Jackson Street at Montgomery. This is the kind of opening that makes SF’s food scene actually interesting, not another overpriced fusion concept, but legitimate, thoughtfully made food from someone who clearly cares about the craft. If you’re in Jackson Square and need breakfast or lunch, you already know where to go.